Apply Now
TEXTILE TESTING AND QUALITY
Contents
1 Introduction
Reasons for textile testing
Checking raw materials
Monitoring production
Assessing the final product
Investigation of faulty material
Product development and research
Standardization of testing
Variation in the material
Variation caused by the test method
Sampling
Terms used in sampling
Fibre sampling from bulk
Fibre sampling from combed slivers, rovings and yarn
Yarn sampling
Fabric sampling
Measurement
Statistical terms
Determination of number of tests
Use of computers
Types of error
Sources of error
Repeatability and reproducibility
Significant reading
References
2 Textiles and moisture
Introduction
Effect of moisture on physical properties
Dimensional
Mechanical
Electrical
Atmospheric moisture
Vapour pressure
Relative humidity
Standard atmosphere
Measurement of atmospheric moisture
Regain and moisture content
Regain-humidity relations of textiles
Factors affecting the regain
Methods of measuring regain
Correct invoice weight
Control of testing room atmosphere
References
3 Fibre dimensions
Fibre fineness
Fineness measurement
Gravimetric
Fibre fineness by projection microscope
Fibre fineness by the airflow method
Cotton fineness by airflow
Cotton maturity
IIC/Shirley fineness and maturity tester
Optical fibre diameter analyser
Light-scattering methods
Vibration method
Wool quality
Fibre length
Mean length
Methods of measurement: direct methods
WIRA fibre length machine
Methods of measurement: tuft methods
Cotton grading
Comb sorter
The clamped tuft method
Fibro graph
WIRA fibre diagram machine
Almeter
High-volume instruments
General reading
References
4 Yarn tests
Linear density
Direct system
Indirect system
Folded yarns
Measuring linear density
Linear density from a fabric sample
Twist
Level of twist
Measuring twist
Yarn evenness
Visual examination
Cut and weigh methods
Uster evenness tester
Zweigle G565
Hairiness
Shirley yarn hairiness tester
Zweigle G565
Uster tester 3 hairiness tester
Zweigle G565
Uster tester 3 hairiness meter attachment
Yarn bulk
Textured filament yarns
Friction coil friction
Measuring yarn friction
References
5. Strength and elongation tests
Introduction
Definitions
Units
Breaking strength; tensile strength
Stress
Specific stress
Tenacity
Breaking length
Elongation
Strain
Extension percentage
Gauge length
Force elongation curve
Yield point
Modulus
Work of rupture
Time dependence
Elastic recovery
Factors affecting tensile testing
Type of testing machine
Specimen length
Rate of loading and time to break
Effect of humidity and temperature
Previous history of the specimen
Clamping problems
Fibre strength
Single fibre strength
Bundle strength
Yarn strength
Yarn strength: single strand method
Yarn strength : skein method
Fabric strength
Strip strength
Grab test
Tear tests
Measuring tearing strength
Single rip tear test
Wing rip tear test
Elmendorf tear tester
Bursting strength
Diaphragm bursting test
Ball bursting strength
Stretch and recovery properties
Seam strength
Seam slippage
Seam slippage tests
Fixed load method
Upholstery seam slippage
General reading
References
6 Dimensional stability
Introduction
Hygral expansion
Relaxation shrinkage
Swelling shrinkage
Felting shrinkage
Weft knitted wool fabrics
Methods of measuring dimensional stability
Marking out samples
WIRA steaming cylinder
Relaxation shrinkage
Washable wool
Washable programmes
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning
Dimensional stability to dry heat
General reading
References
7 Serviceability
Introduction
Snagging
Mace snagging test
Pilling
Pilling tests
Abrasion resistance
Factors affecting abrasion resistance
Abrasion tests
Wearer trials
Advantages of wearer trials
Advantages of laboratory tests
Disadvantages of laboratory tests
Design of trials
References
8 Comfort
Introduction
Thermal comfort
Heat balance
Heat loss
Air permeability
Measurement of thermal conductivity
Measurement of water vapour permeability
Moisture transport
Wetting
Wicking
Longitudinal wicking
Wicking test
Transverse wicking
Sensorial comfort
Water absorption
Static immersion
Wettability of textile fabrics
Sinking time
Water repellency
Spray rating
Bundesmann water repellency test
WIRA shower test
Credit rain simulation tester
Hydrostatic head
References
9 Colour fastness testing
Introduction
Sample preparation
Outline of colour fastness tests
Colour fastness to other agents
References
10 Objective evaluation of fabric handle
Handle
Bending length
Shirley stiffness test
Hanging loop method
Drape
Crease recovery
Fabric thickness
Shear
Bias extension
Formability
Fabric friction
Kawabata system
Subjective assessment of fabric handle
Objective evaluation of fabric handle
FAST: fabric assurance by simple testing
Compression
Bending length
Extensibility
Dimensional stability
General reading
References
11 Quality
Definitions of quality
Types of quality
Quality control
Quality assurance
ISO 9000
Enquiries and orders
Purchased material or services
Inspection and testing
Calibration of test equipment
Organizational structure
Quality audit
Training
Textile product iabelling
Fibre content
Flammability iabels
Origin markings
Care iabelling
References